We spent our last days in Italy with long walks on the beach of Castiglione Della Pescaia. And we had some awesome restaurant experiences.
The beach between Castiglione Della Pescaia and Marina in Grosseto is a long one. The water is clear and refreshing. Sometimes you can see some fish swimming. We had read that Marina in Grosseto is ruined by ugly touristic buildings, so we didn’t continue our walk to this place. But you can easily walk two hours (in one direction) without seeing a lot of people (in October).
In October, the historical village has a relaxing atmosphere. It’s a touristic town, but a cosy one. It is a nice starting point to explore South Tuscany by car and to enjoy its ocean and nature. We stayed in small two-star hotel: Rosella. We had a room on the top (3th) floor. The room is not very big, but fine. The beds are good and the room is clean. When you look outside, you have a nice view on some rooftops and the ocean. Next to the room, there is a shared roof terrace. It’s very quiet and it has an air-conditioning (we did not use it). We payed 55 Euros per room per night, including breakfast. The breakfast is simple, but fine too. We never felt the need to have breakfast outside. We didn’t have dinner in the hotel but it is possible (reservations only). There is free wifi, but the signal was weak. The service is friendly, and you can borrow a bike for free. Good quality for the price, nothing fancy, but we had a good time. We rate this hotel with an 8 out of 10.
We had lunch in two different restaurants in Castiglione Della Pescaia. After our first walk, we went to restaurant L’Antica Fontana, where we tried the pizza. They were huge and tasty, but a bit too soggy (because of the tomatoes). The service was friendly. We sat outside in front of an old fontain (which explains the name of the restaurant). We rate this restaurant with a 6. The next day, we went to restaurant Da Celso. It’s a small place, and we were the only customers in the afternoon. They made a mistake with one of the dishes, but after our 4-hour walk, we just wanted to have lunch and accepted the other dish. The food was fine, and so was the service. I think I had my best pizza of our holiday here. But all pizzas we had in Italy so far were a little basic. We rate Da Celso with an 6.5.
The sunsets in South Tuscany are beautiful. It sets the sky on fire. On the horizon, you can see the black contrasts of islands, floating on the ocean. The combination with the rustling water makes your mind peaceful and happy.
Excellent Italian Japanese fusion restaurant.
The evening before our last day in South Tuscany, we went to restaurant Il Sottomarino. It’s a culinary hotspot in Follonica. The service is outstanding. One of the waiters spoke English very well and was happy to explain the dishes and suggest the best wine with the dish. The restaurant decoration is modern, with a traditional touch. It’s not a dress-to-impress place, and we felt welcome and comfortable. We had a 3-course experience with lobster, creamy mashed potatoes with shrimps, mixed fish with mushrooms and a very tasty (slightly grilled) tuna, with crunchy sesame on the outside and a little soy sauce. We shared a plate of different beautiful desserts. The Italian white wine we had is from a Japanese-Italian owner: Bulichella. So yummy! The ‘damage’ was € 74,- including a bottle of water and espresso, and worth every Euro cent. We rate this must-try restaurant with a 9 out of 10.
Another must-try restaurant
It was a 40 km drive to our last restaurant in South Tuscany. This restaurant is located in the medieval village of Massa Marittima. The restaurant is called Il Vecchio Borgo. When you enter this cosy place, it feels like entering the Middle Ages. There is a huge fire place in the centre of the restaurant, where the female chef was grilling the largest portions of pork we had ever seen. It looked so tasty, that we almost regretted that we had ‘just’ ordered a appetizer plate and a two-course pasta dinner with truffle. However, the food was nice, and so was the wine. For meat lovers, this is the place to be! We rate this place with an 8 out of 10.
Also check: “Smelly hot spring”